Updates

Hello dear reader.....

As of today (16th July) the blog has been updated with a brief narrative and a few photo's. This is very much a first draft but hopefully it gives a flavour of the ride. There will be more to follow about the pilgrimage and some reflections.

I have been astounded by the amount of interest and support. To say that I am grateful is a real understatement.

It is my intention to try and produce some powerpoint presentations from the ride along with a short talk (me, cycling, short??) all to continue to raise funds for both the Crypt and the Furniture Store. Please do get in contact if you would like to know more or if the idea of a short talk is of any use.

Best wishes

Day 20 Home

It was a long day. We were on the ferry crossing the channel at 7:00 and then it was simply driving north dropping people off. We got to Leeds at 4:00.

It was great to be home with so many stories to tell.

This had been the most challenging ride I had ever done. It was also the most rewarding. Would I do it again? Absolutely, but next time I get home an easier way!

Day 19 Hendaye to Bayonne & home

Irun / Hendaye to Bayonne and beyond

After being awake a lot for much of the night we were up at 5:45. We packed the bags and eventually went the short distance from the hostal to the railway station. We arrived there about 6:50 to check the information we had about trains to Bayonne. The train was stood in the station and due to go in just 4 minutes. Tickets were quickly bought courtesy of a lovely lady in the SNCF office; bikes and bodies were thrown on the train very rapidly and we were off. We arrived in Bayonne at 7:30, just 2 hours before our rendezvous with the bike bus. We ambled through Bayonne checking directions against the map that we had and we quickly found the F1 hotel that was our pick up point. We were first there but shortly joined by Janet who had also cycled to Santiago but she had cycled back too – much less stressful even if more time consuming! The bus had been held up crossing the Channel the day before so we received a text message telling us that the pick up would be about 10:30. It really didn’t matter – we had made it!

Once we were on the bus I went out like a light. I slept for about 4 hours during which time we had a tour of Toulouse and Lourdes before finally heading north, and home.

Day 18 Ourence to Irun

Day 18 Ourence to Irun

We are up at 5:45. Ricky thinks it’s a straight road back to the station, I think we have to turn somewhere. On that basis we go back up to the main road and then I start to walk back in the direction of the station, the click clack of Malcolm’s cleats following not far behind. The click clack stops and Malcolm rides past me just as I spot a junction ahead where we turn left. Malcolm goes straight on. It takes a while for Malcolm to come back but we had allowed plenty of time. It was just coming light as we got to the station.

The next journey to Leon was the part where we had needed to reserve bike spaces. There were only three spaces available in total and we had all three. Despite that there was already a bike hanging there when we boarded but the train conductor was not causing us any problems. It was a long journey to Leon and we recognised quite a few places. We went past the McDonalds in Ponferrada and we recognised immediately the green bridge that we had cycled over in Astorga. At Leon we had a two hour wait so we went off the station in search of food. By coincidence, we were not far from where we had slept by the river several days before and we went off in search of the same McDonalds that Chris had failed to find. It took us a while as it was well hidden in the trees.

We were back on the station in plenty of time to get the next train to Palencia where we had 40 minutes between trains and had to get new tickets for the final leg to Irun. We disembarked at Palencia on a middle platform so decided to leave the bikes while we went to buy tickets to Irun. This we did, fortuitously just asking for tickets for us (and getting our Spanish Senior citizens discount too) and not mentioning bikes. On our schedule this train had no restrictions on bike numbers. According to the information screens our train was leaving from Platform 4, the same platform we had arrived on. This looked like an easy transfer.

There is much announcing done over the loudspeakers so I go and check the information screens. Our train is now leaving on Platform 2. Not a problem as platforms 2 and 4 are together. Then a train pulls in to Platform 4 just as ours is due. I check the information screens again. This train is also going to Irun but it’s an express so no bikes. Our train is three minutes behind this on platform 2. The express has stopped with the locomotive just where Malcolm is stood. Being Spain, the driver opens the cab door and comes out for a smoke. Malcolm asks if the train is going to Irun. “Si” is the answer, at which point there is immediate confusion with Malcolm saying this is our train etc and me saying no it isn’t. No lives were lost during the discussion.

McDonalds - Leon

Our train does arrive (platform 2) and we get on. Bikes are in coach 3 and we immediately find that there are only three spaces. These are already taken, but we are on the train. It’s a busy one too as today is the bull run day in Pamplona. Happily the conductor is a nice chap and we stay on the train. It’s a long journey to Irun and I spend two hours talking to Francesco from Vigo with much help from the Spanish phrasebook. We arrive in Irun just turned 9:00 after travelling all day. We are tired and now need to get from Irun, in Spain, to Hendaye, in France. This is a short hop and effectively it is the same place straddling the border. The signs in Irun station point us rather portentously to the International Train Station. This turns out to be a metro type of station hidden amongst a row of shops. We buy tickets and then manoeuvre fully loaded bikes through underground type ticket barriers, breaking one in the process. We then have to carry fully loaded bikes down two sets of stairs to the platform. The train arrives quickly, we spot the bike spaces in the first carriage and off we go again.

Letting the train take the strain

The International Train Station in Hendaye stops very close to the SNCF station and Ricky goes in to check train times. The station is just closing for the night and there are no further trains. We are told that the first train to Bayonne is 7.45 next morning. This is marked Paris on the boards but the first stop is Bayonne, we are told. I ask about accommodation and see a blue light across the street flashing “Hostal”. At this point we realise Malcolm is missing and it transpires that he went into town to look for an aubergue where he has stayed before. We go into town but cannot find the aubergue so go back to the hotel by the station finally booking in at 11:00, dog tired.

We are just 20 miles from the pick up point tomorrow morning. Everything has worked out according to plan so far. I sleep for a while but then I wake full of anxiety about travelling the final leg.

Day 17 Santiago to Ourence

Monte do Gozo to Santiago de Compestela

5.39 (total 561.36)

No rush to get up this morning so we let all the other pilgrims get up first and finally got up at 7:30. After getting up we pack our bags again and go down to the onsite cafeteria for a breakfast. Monte do Gozo compares well with Morecombe and Butlins all rolled into one. It’s row after row of accommodation blocks most of which are stood empty. There are some school trips in at the bottom of the site and the aubergue at the top. The cafe is in the middle and it’s empty.

Renfe leave trains anywhaer

After breakfast it’s really a matter of passing time until we catch the train to Ourence. We go back down to the cathedral and the square. Chris and I go into the cathedral for the later part of the midday pilgrims mass and see the spectacle of the censor being swung up to the ceiling. Inside the cathedral, it’s like being in Briggate on Christmas Eve as people mill around despite the mass taking place. The service itself is impressive with priests being fully robed, another very mellow organ playing and another nun with a wonderful singing voice. In the square I am fascinated watching all the comings and goings. Quite large parties arrive singing having walked who knows how far. Smaller groups huddle together. Individuals hug and greet others who they have me on the road. This includes us as we recognise other cyclists whom we have met over the past two weeks. I muse on the cathedral watching all this ever changing tapestry. We shall be gone tomorrow but others will replace us for s short while until they too are replaced.

We have coffee and say our goodbye’s to Chris who is heading off to the north coast and making his way back to Bayonne. We pass some time in a local park and meet Billy Boyle again for a long chat before we finally make our way to the train station to set off for Ourence.

Hostal Lido

We have no problems catching the train and we find that the front carriage has plenty of room for the bikes. Again we were shown true kindness by a lady at the station who probably recognised our anxiety. She responded by taking us to the train (which was already sat in the station) explained where the bikes needed to go and then saw us nicely settled before leaving us. We settle down for the two hour journey through Galicea and enjoy the scenery as it winds past the windows. We had expected a glut of hotels, UK style, at the station in Ourence but this was not to be. We had to travel down into the town and then the only place we could find was a very posh looking four star hotel. We asked passers by and one lady did an internet search on her phone for us and then directed us to the Hostal Lido where we got a room for three for just €47. Once booked in Ricky and I just wanted a shower and sleep whilst Malcolm went out to find some food.

Day 16 Santiago and planning the return

Monte do Gozo to Santiago de Compestela

8.35 (total 555.96)

Getting back to Bayonne is proving difficult. We enquired at Tourist Information and they told us that we cannot take bikes on trains. We then went to the station where we were told we can take bikes on regional trains only. And there are limited spaces for bikes on some trains so reservations need to be made. Already we have talked about alternatives such as flying home as we have spotted that bikes can be sent on from Santiago for €49. We have also talked about heading to Santander for the ferry.

We decided to try and head back tomorrow (Friday) so that we had a buffer of a day should we need it, and so we could be back in Bayonne with time to spare. In the event this proves not possible as there are no spaces for the bikes on the part of the journey that we need to reserve bike spaces. Jose at the station does manage to make the reservations for Saturday but as there is no connecting train from Santiago on Saturday we have to set off on Friday night. By doing this we can get to Irun / Hendaye on the Spanish / French border by late Saturday night. Phone calls home (and then to Liz in France) suggest that there is a train from Hendaye to Bayonne about 7:00 on Sunday morning but this is not certain. If all this works then we will be in Bayonne for 8:00 Sunday morning in time to meet up with the Bike Express at 9:30. Not a lot of room for error.

The schedule is

Santiago cathedral

Friday 17:20 Santiago to Ourence

Saturday 8.42 to arrive Leon 12:45

Saturday 14:45 to arrive Palencia 16:10

Saturday 16:52 to arrive Irun 21:08

Saturday find our way from Irun to Hendaye

Sunday about 7:00 to Bayonne

We book tickets as far as Palencia knowing that there is much that can go wrong.

The rest of the day is spent in Santiago but frankly, I am disappointed. The cathedral is imposing but the whole place is full of tourists and feels brash after spending two weeks in rural areas in the company of pilgrims. I am happy sitting in the cathedral and watching the square as it pulses with life. I take a tour of the cathedral including visiting the relics of St James but then I go back to Monte do Gozo to wash clothes. After that I sit with Chris and Pedro in the cafe watching the Tour de France.

Day 15 Palas de Rei to Santiago

Day 15 Palas de Rei to Santiago de Compestela (Monte do Gozo)

40.33 (total 547.61)

Everyone was up by 6:30 feeling ok but washed out. Not only had everyone been ill but we had not eaten for the best part of 24 hours. Not good when you are cycling and using up calories. We HAVE to get to Santiago today. We decide that today we have to keep stopping / eating to get energy levels back. We eat breakfast in the hotel before joining the constant procession of folk heading west out of the town and towards Santiago. And today it is cool and wet.

There are still hills to climb and we all find that we are dropping down to very low gears as soon as we start to climb. We stop at a garage to get some chocolate bars and then at a cafe for coffee and tostadas. We are all still feeling very flat with not a lot in the legs.

We roll through Arzua and the hills are softening a bit. The rain clears away and the humidity with it. A sleep stop is called and everyone flakes out on some roadside benches. It is now cool but clear and fresh. Just as we think it is getting easier we are faced with a 3k slog out of Amenal but we now have less than 10 miles to Santiago. At the top of the climb and following some signs that take cyclists off the road, we find the Santiago boundary stone just before we reach the airport. As far as we are concerned, we are there. Various calls home are made followed by various photo’s being taken. We then set off again around the airport, through Lavacolla and San Marcos to Monte do Gozo to meet up with Malcolm.

We find the aubergue, again up a very steep climb, and book in before catching a bus down to Santiago. Once there we go to the Pilgrims Office to collect our Compostela and then we ate before starting immediately to plan the return journey back to Bayonne.

Day 14 Samos to Palas de Rei

Day 14 Samos to Palas de Rei

38.69 (total 507.27)

The guide book warned that this was a day of constant up and down and was as hard as any days to date. And what a grand day it turned out to be. I was awake before 6:00 with a rumbling tum (being polite). I had also suffered some indigestion after turning in the night before. I was quite pleased that my bunk in the dorm was right next to the door to the “facilities”. Had I been at the other end of the dorm then I would have been moving at warp factor speeds to avoid disaster. The antidote was in my somewhat scant medical supplies so I popped a couple of Imodium capsules and kept my fingers crossed. We all went over the road for breakfast and another visit to the facilities meant popping another Imodium and more finger crossing. Needless to say I was not feeling great as we rolled out of Samos and I was laying the blame at a water fountain I had used to fill my water bottles on the climb up to O Cebreiro. We rode through Sarria and about 9 miles to Pacios before we stopped for coffee. I had a chocolate croissant and this later proved to be my entire food intake for the day.

Portomarin

Visits to the facilities were less frequent and I thought the problem was fixed just leaving me feeling quite drained, in many senses of that word. We rode on and through Portomarin at which point both Ricky and Chris mentioned that they too were not feeling grand. We were in terrain that could best be described as rolling, very rolling. The ascents were shortish but were bottom gear or thereabouts with short and fast descents between them. At this point there was very little but fields and woods, and people were visiting both the fields and the woods with increasing regularity. We realised that we had all eaten chicken the evening before and decided that this was the likely culprit. The Imodium I had left were shared out and we stopped by the aubergue at Gonzar at 1:00 for an hour or more so that Chris and Ricky could rest a while before we carried on. Stopping was not an option as the next Farmacia was a good twenty miles further on. After the rest period Ricky was quite ill, but this had the effect of making him feel better, and the Imodium was having some effect on Chris. We set off again, making very slow progress as we were all devoid of energy. We stopped again at the aptly named Hospital Alta de Cruz and a fellow pilgrim who had suffered similarly topped up our Imodium supplies. It took 2.5 hours to cover 10 miles.

And then my blister burst.

We made Palas de Rei about 5:30. Ironic that after cycling twenty miles to find a Farmacia there were two within 100 yards of each other. The whole town was on a descent and we missed the aubergues that our guide book said were there. At the bottom of the town was a small hotel so we headed for that. It cost us €70 for a three bed room but it was taken with gratitude. Everyone showered with Ricky and Chris falling straight into bed whilst I went and sorted out the payment for the room. We were all in bed by 7:30 and we all slept solidly until 6:30 next morning.

Very few photographs were taken this day.

Day 13 Vega de Valcarce to Samos

Day 13 Vega de Valcarce to Samos

31.26 (total 468.58)

Monument at O Cebreiro

Up at 6:00 again. The municipal aubergue in Vega was full so we ended up in a private place that had a kitchen upstairs. The place was empty when we arrived but filled up quickly although at €10 it was a bit more expensive than was usual. I had a night of vivid dreams and woke more than once. Ricky had got provisions for breakfast but we couldn’t get into the kitchen at first. We managed to get in before we left but then found that there was no tea or coffee so eventually we set off without and in the hope that we could get something on the road.

Samos - entrance to the monastery

Again, this was a climb out, probably the steepest and most enduring climb of them all. It was bottom gear all the way and with some zig zagging across the road to take the sting out where the road was exceptionally steep. When we started off the Autovia was on bridges high above us. By the time we had reached the top the Autovia was a long way below us. We stopped after 8 miles of climbing at Pedrafita for some breakfast before continuing the climb for another couple of miles to O Cebreiro. We had two more peaks before we finally topped out after 15.5 miles of climbing. Added to the 10 miles the day before this put the hill in the region of 25 miles long. The descent from the top started immediately and it was a good road, wide with good visibility and no traffic, so we were away. We covered 9 miles in 15 minutes! I was doing 35 mph when I passed a sign warning of a steep descent so I kept shifting my weight backwards on the bike so that I could brake late and hard. Again a top speed of 45/46 mph was easily achieved. We were all beaming with the adrenalin rush when we got to the village of Triacastela at the bottom. The descent continued even after Triacastela but at a much more gentle space and so we rolled into Samos in the early afternoon and came across the monastery. It was decided that this would be a great place to stay as the aubergue was within the monastery, and so that is what we did.

After the usual scrub up and washing of clothes we took a tour of the monastery which was exceptionally beautiful. After that we went for a meal, again from the Perrigrino’s menu before attending mass in the monastery. The meal turned out to be a mistake, but we were not to discover that until next day.

Also strange that the monastery had a petrol station attached!

Day 12 Rabana del Camino to Vega de Valcarce

Day 12 Rabanal del Camino to Vega de Valcarce

46.23 (total 437.31)

I slept well and was up at 6:00. We had a good breakfast at the aubergue as we knew there was not much on the road today, at least not early. We had a plentiful supply of coffee con leche and tostada before we set off at 7:00. This was after several repacks of my panniers. The problem was that it was now much cooler and I still had wet clothes to carry. These had not dried the evening before.

A perfect morning

The morning was decidedly cool. I layered up with base layer, short sleeved top, long sleeved top and a light coat and could still feel the cold. We picked up the climb where we had left it the evening before and we started off in a lovely clear morning with the sun rising over our shoulders. The road ramped up and it was soon into tractor gear for the first time in a few days to grind slowly up the hill. The temperature went down as we climbed higher and we were into cloud which reduced the temperature even more. After 5 miles and 90 minutes cycling, we arrived at the Cruz de Ferro (4,930 feet altitude) and stayed a while to view the mountain of stones (signifying the unburdening of sins) and reading some of the eulogies that had been left there. The Summit at 4,980 feet (the highest point on the route) was a little further on and I was shivering it was so cold.

Cruz de Ferro

The top of the climb went up and down for short while before the road started to descend. The guide book made it clear the descent was dangerous and mentioned that cyclists had been killed going down this hill. At the start of the descent the road was covered in grit so the brakes were on continuously to prevent any build up of speed. The wind chill also kicked in very rapidly as we were still in cloud and my whole body was shaking with the cold. The poor road surface continued to the village of El Acebo where the guide book recommended getting off and walking for safety (I rode through the village) but after that we had dropped below the cloud, the road was wide with a good surface so it was fun time!

The descent was a cracker! It was a long series of hair pins but visibility was good and there was no traffic so it was simply let go of the brakes and hang on. We had all lost each other but I did see Ricky about a mile in front and a long way down the mountain. I was holding a speed of over 40 mph and topped out at about 45/46 mph. Sheep and goats were a bit of a hazard as they didn’t seem to understand English as I was yelling at them to get off the road. There was also much writing on the road as I guess it was used as a climb in Spanish cycling events, perhaps even the Vuelta.

Near the bottom of the hill was the very pretty village of Molinaseca where I caught up with Ricky. We thought of stopping for coffee but we both thought that Chris was somewhere in front and decided to go on to Ponferrada to catch up with him. As it happened Chris was still behind us having stopped at the top of the mountain before the descent. We had missed him as the Knights Templar had started a procession off and he had been enveloped in the crowd.

Molinaseca

We ride on and into Ponferrada following the road route but no sign of Chris. We eventually made contact with each other via text message and Chris is also in Ponferrada but he arrived following the walkers route and is in a different place. We arrange for Chris to follow the road up to us as we are by a distinctive roundabout with a large fountain. It subsequently turns out that just about every roundabout in Ponferrada has a large fountain and it takes a little while for us to find each other. During these efforts we passed a really handsome castle but we did not have the opportunity to take a picture. We did eventually meet up and then we headed for McDonalds for a proper lunch before heading off again. Not only did we eat but the day had now warmed up and layers were taken off in the sunshine.

The road out of Ponferrada was arrow straight and was relatively flat but we knew the next big hill was not far ahead. We rolled on to Villafranca del Bierzo and had a short break before staring the climb with the intention of getting the first 10 miles done ready to take the big climb next morning. The road up to Vega de Valcarce followed a valley and was criss crossing with the river below and the Autovia above. As I rode up I came across a snake in the cycle lane and couldn’t decide whether it was dead or just sunning itself. I didn’t investigate!

Day 11 Leon to Rabanal del Camino

Day 11 Leon to Rabanal del Camino

44.14 (total 391.08)

Hospital de Orbigo

Today we are off nice and early again but this is a day in which everything changes. Firstly, it’s quite cool at the off. Farmaicia signs say the temperature is down at 10/12 degrees, and we can feel the difference. Secondly, we are rolling off the Meseta plain today and into Galicia. Here we are going back into hills, the Mountains of Leon in fact and we have discussed our strategy for dealing with two major climbs that lie ahead. Today we have a fairly flat run as far as Astorga (about 25 miles on from Leon) but from there it is climbing. The climb is not steep to start with but we expect it be steep up to the Cruz del Ferro. Not just steep but also a long climb. So, taking all this into account, our plan is to take the lower and shallow part of the climb leaving the steep part for tomorrow and fresh legs. On that basis we select Rabanal del Camino as our target for the day as the guide book says there are several places to stay in what is only a small village.

Astorga - Bishops Palace

So we ride off into the last of the flat lands only noticing that the wheat fields of the Meseta have been replaced with vineyards and other green crops. We covered 20 miles by 9:30 and wandered into Hospital de Orbigo to see the long Roman bridge and for breakfast of coffee and tostada’s, or croissants for me, just for a change. The bites to my legs are still sore and one has turned into a blister that could win prizes so I use the break to apply some cream and put some plasters on the blister. From Hospital de Orbigo we start to climb gently towards Astorga where we find yet another stunning cathedral and a Bishop’s Palace built by Gaudi. We stop for coffee and have a quick look around and then carry on once more.

Rabanal del Camino - church

The climb ramps up a bit after Astorga and we are climbing steadily and into a headwind for the next 12 miles to Rabanal del Camino. By the time we get there we are pretty much running on empty at which point we remember that we have only stopped to eat the once, and then we had very little. At least the temperatures had stayed down and we had not had to deal with heat as well. The aubergue is very different to any we have stayed at before; it’s more like a wild west town as it is open to the skies but has a bar and a cafe as well as the dormitories and other facilities. I take a half hour break before I start the scrubbing up and clothes washing just to recover.

We ate in the aubergue and later went to a small and very ancient church where a group of monks sang vespers. The service was much shorter than others that we had attended and in its setting, it seemed to connect well with past pilgrims going back over the centuries.

We later had a discussion about progress as we knew that we had to get to Santiago fairly quickly if we were to get back to Bayonne in time to pick up the European Bike Express. Our estimate was that we had about 140 miles still to do and that we should be able to manage 40 miles at a minimum each day. On this basis we estimated Wednesday as our arrival day in Santiago and we knew that there was no room for any slippage.

Day 10 El Burgo Ranero to Leon

Day 10 El Burgo Ranero to Leon

24.07 (total 346.93)

Mansilla - pilgrims cross

We knew that today was a short run. We had the luxury of twin rooms. We stopped in bed until 6:10! We also had the advantage of a quick pack up as we hadn’t needed sleeping bags and towels out the night before so, after feasting on toast, marmalade and coffee bought especially for breakfast; we were off by 7:30. It was pan flat roads again and a steady run of 16 miles or so to Mansilla, our next meeting up point, but I managed to lose the route in Reliego’s. I think someone had painted some extra yellow arrows on the road to divert traffic to a bar. We met up in Mansilla and had more breakfast before riding on to Leon. I also passed the two nuns I had met the night before. We said our Buen Caminos and I looked down at my cycle computer to see how far they had walked, and that was 8.5 miles. I reckoned that they had probably set off walking about 5:00 to get where they were.

Leon Cathedral

Malcolm had been talking for a few days about going straight on to Santiago so as we completed the long gentle climb up into Leon, Malcolm said his adios and veered off to follow the N120. The trio remaining rolled down into Leon to find the aubergue which turned out to be very close to the cathedral. As we rolled up to the hostel I again met the two nuns who had booked in before us and wondered just how they had managed to get to Leon before us. We did find out later that they had walked 20k and then caught a bus. We booked into the hostel and I was taken to one side by one of the nuns to ask about my legs. One of the bites had by now turned into a very large blister and all of the others were red and angry. She was concerned that I had picked up bed bugs and was bringing them into this aubergue.

After booking in we set off into town. Lunch was kebabs, and very nice too. We then found that it was siesta time as virtually everything shut down. We did find a bar with lots of horses outside and we think there was a wedding going on. We decided that siesta time should be taken advantage of so we drifted down to the park by the river where we spread out under the shade of a tree. One hour and ten minutes later I woke to find Chris had disappeared (in search of a McDonalds as it happened) and Ricky stirring. We walked back up into town calling at a Farmacie for me to get some cream for my legs, and then a cake shop for coffee and ..... cake.

Local band

The cathedral didn’t disappoint although it was not as spectacular as the cathedral at Burgos. We ate and then decided to go to the mass as the aubergue today was in a convent. Ricky and I went into the church and I was keeping an eye open for Chris when I heard a commotion from outside. It turned out that today was a feast day (most days are, so no surprise there) and there was a group outside with a drummer and a chap playing a clarinet style instrument all accompanied by dancing figures, the figures being some 15/16 feet high. The mass itself was strange in that it was clearly led by the nuns from the convent but a priest was also present as the nuns were unable to undertake some parts of the service. One of the nuns was sat at what I took to be a piano but when she started to play it was a very mellow organ. A good accompaniment to one of the nuns who led the responses and who had a beautiful singing voice.

After the mass it was time for bed. In the hostel we met Jim (of Jim and Karen) again, and we also met our friend Jose who had helped us over the Pyrenees once more. Although I was in bed early I didn’t have the best of nights. My legs hurt quite a lot with the bites that I had picked up, it was quite warm and my bunk was near the windows and the partying went on well into the night. 

Day 9 Fromista to El Burgo Ranero

Day 9 Fromista to El Burgo Ranero

50.81 (total 322.86)

Santo Domingo

Another early start. Up at 5:30, bike packed and ready to roll by 6:30 and on the road by 7:00. The fields that had been hot and tedious in the heat of the afternoon yesterday were now cool, welcoming and a joy to ride through. Ricky and I set off first with Chris and Malcolm following behind. It was 11.5 miles to Carrion de los Condes where we had agreed to come together again for breakfast and it was a very happy hour spent riding along. The bike hummed along the quiet roads to the sound of the birds chirping happily away. Even the tyres on the road and the chain pulling through the gears added to the general sense of well being. Perhaps this was just as well, as we had decided to spend some time in Leon and the intention today was to press on a bit further so that we had just a short run to Leon tomorrow. We had even resisted the warnings in the aubergue that accommodation ahead may be difficult and the advice to book ahead – unusual as most of the accommodation is on a first come first served basis.

The Meseta Plain

Carrion de los Condes was the breakfast stop so the usual coffee con leche and tostada’s were ordered and we sat outside planning the rest of the day. Sahagun was the obvious place to stay on this particular night as after that the route went through small villages with limited accommodation. El Burgo Ranero was further down the road and had two aubergues according to our guide book, so we decided to make that our target for the day as it moved us about 12 miles nearer to Leon. Our guide books also warned us that we had another 20 miles of not very much in front of us on a rapidly heating day so we stocked up with food, buying some boccadillos from the cafe and naranja’s from the market that was setting up. Then it was slap on the sunscreen again before setting off for Sahagun.

The ride from Carrion de los Condes to Sahagun was unremarkable. We cycled 27 miles virtually without stopping except to fill water bottles at roadside fountains. This was the Meseta plain; flat, hot and nothing. Sahagun, welcome as it was, did nothing to inspire either. We stopped at a cafe and called in at the aubergue to have our credentials stamped. We had met up with Jim and Karen again so had a chat with them before setting off again. We found our way back onto the N120 and then onto side roads again. We came to a roundabout where we expected to find a turn off to Bercianos del Real Camino but there were no signs. We were scratching our heads in puzzlement, but then we spotted the road a short distance away, lurking behind some bushes. The road simply stopped 50 yards short of the roundabout. We had to cross a bit of rough ground to get on the road, but that was the one!

The usual weather pattern had also sprung up as the day had gone on. It had been perfectly still early in the morning with a blustery breeze becoming more prevalent as the morning wore on. The breeze had now been replaced by a steady westerly that was blowing in from our left. Just a few more degrees would have made it a friendly wind but as it was it was blowing against us.

By the time we reached El Burgo Ranero the early rising, the heat and the wind had us pretty tired so we started to look for accommodation. The first aubergue gave preference to walkers and the second was already full but they could offer us two twin rooms for the princely rate of €20 per room. It was a bargain and with the luxury of having our own shower! It was especially welcome for me as I also had the opportunity to soak my legs which were still suffering from the insect bites.

Useful Road Signs

So it was into the routine of scrub up and wash clothes before relaxing in the very large garden; one which housed several wooden sheds/chalets that in turn provided beds for pilgrims. It was in this garden that I first met two nuns from Berlin who were walking the Camino having set out from Roncesvalles several weeks before.

As usual, there was a bar not far away and we ate there, again choosing from the Perrigrino’s menu. There was quite a crowd watching Euro 2012 in the bar as we left and we spotted the two nuns in the best seats watching the match (Germany were playing). I was posed for a photo so that Chris could take a picture of the nuns over my shoulder . We then spent quite a while trying to think of a punchline to, “there were two nuns in a bar watching a football match.....”.

We also had a bit of a change as instead of us losing Malcolm, tonight Malcolm lost us. Chris and I had just assumed that he had got back to the aubergue before us but he hadn’t. It transpired that Malcolm phoned Ricky after we had turned in as he couldn’t find his way back to the aubergue. Poor Ricky had to get up again and go and find him. Lucky it was only a small place!

 

Day 8 Burgos to Fromista

Day 7 Burgos to Fromista

47.25 (total 272.04)

Yet another 6:00 and out of bed to get on the road in the cool of the morning. As we left the aubergue a young man with a severe speech impediment and some physical disabilities came along to claim a rather nice looking bike that we had been admiring. He had some laminated cards to tell us that his disabilities resulted from some medical negligence when he was young. He entertained us by kicking his shoes against the wall to get them on but came across as a thoroughly nice guy.

Another empty and pan flat road

We rode as far as Tardajos before stopping for coffee and tortilla where we met Jim and Karen. These two were hauling Bob Yaks and we met them again several times over the next few days. There was a climb about 7 miles after Tardajos but this was followed by a long descent as we rolled onto the Meseta plain for several days on flat land. The roads now were quiet, very quiet and the day was heating up rapidly. The guide books warned of high temperatures with few places to stop and buy food or collect water. The guide books were right. The sun got hotter and the heat just bounced back off mile after mile of wheat fields at the side of the road. The roads were long and straight. The rider in front shimmered in the heat and any car that passed (and there were very few) was visible for many minutes. Villages visible in the distance teased us by not getting any nearer.

And another day over!

We came across a garage so stopped to fill water bottles and pick up biscuits and the like to help us keep going. There was then a long haul of going on for 20 miles to Castrojeriz, 20 miles of nothing! Castrojeriz, on the other hand, was a nice village with a nice church, but it was all closed. The aubergue in the village was open so we collected a stamp for our credentials but there was nowhere to stock up on food. That being the case we carried on to Fromista using local roads, noticing only that a wind struck up from the west as the afternoon progressed.

One of the things that had struck during the day was the extensive arrangements made to move water around in order to water the crops. This was achieved by various means including canals (as they called them). There was a canal cascading down the small hill as we entered Fromista which served only to remind us that we were thirsty. Just as we entered the market square there was a small bar that kept us supplied with Tonic Water as we had discovered that this was a good thirst quencher.

Crossing boundaries

Again we booked into the aubergue and after scrubbing up and washing clothes we were sat outside and then fell asleep on the benches in the market square, by the church. Again, our evening meal was in the bar right outside the aubergue and again, we chose from the Perrigrino’s menu. Again, we were in bed early, certainly by 9:30. Apparently Spain won the semi finals that night and there were fireworks and much partying, none of which I heard!

Day 6 Belorado to Burgos

Day 6 Belorado to Burgos

30.15 (total 224.79)

After my extra hours sleep it was up at 6:00, breakfast in the aubergue and then on the road again. At breakfast we met Ann, another person from Leeds, who had been made redundant and had decided to do something positive with the time it gave her. For the second morning my legs were quite sore with the bites that I had picked up.

Burgos Cathedral

Leaving Belorado was straight forwards but it was interesting to see that while some of the buildings were quite well maintained and refurbished (the aubergue being an example) other properties were in a state of advanced dilapidation.

The road to Burgos was much busier and there was a lot of traffic on the N120. The ride itself was fairly tedious because of the traffic and as the scenery was also bland at best as farms turned into industrial sites and then into a busy cityscape. There was also some climbing to be done, nothing as serious as we had been doing but still difficult under a hot sun. Once topped, however, the descent was a long one and went just about all the way to Burgos. The most noteworthy incident was Ricky snapping another drive side spoke on the rear wheel at Villafranca. This was put to rights by the purchase of anew back wheel once we got to Burgos. Malcolm also got pulled by the local constabulary as we entered the city because he kept riding wide into the carriageway. He was told to stay in the bike lane.

Crossing the river and entrance to main square

Burgos itself was quite stunning. We quickly found the Municipal aubergue just behind the cathedral, booked in, and then went out to look at the city. The place was teeming with people but there were plenty of quiet shady places to sit down by the river and there was a large plaza in front of the cathedral to be enjoyed. Much time was spent in the cathedral which was unbelievably large and absolutely opulent; very light and airy, unlike cathedrals back in the UK. There were countless side chapels each containing gold by the hundredweight, and with paintings, statues and icons probably worth thousands of pounds. Most notable was the silver funeral carriage which we guessed was used for El Cid, and the huge staircase that had been built after an extension had been built that required a new entrance at ground level.

Staircase in Burgos Cathedral

There was also a small church just up the road from our aubergue that was open for visitors. Here the alter was floor to ceiling with details figures setting out stories from the Bible. This was just a small church but with a huge history and much to explore. Typical really of the whole area that we were riding through.

Despite the opulence and the riches we were all aware that this was the place where Martin Sheen had his bag stolen in the film The Way. Perhaps that made us aware of the fact that there were poor people and beggars around, some of whom were approaching pilgrims and tourists asking for money.

Again, we chose to eat from the Perrigrino’s menu in the bar next to the aubergue and turned in fairly early. Although I slept well again I was nevertheless aware of plenty of noise into the night right through until 4:00 or so. They know how to party in Burgos and I suspevct that they have plenty of feast days to practice.

Day 5 Logrono to Belorado

Day 5 Logrono to Belorado

46.50 (total 194.62)

We were up at 6:00 with a clear blue sky already beginning to show. Today was going to be hot again, and hot it turned out to be with temperatures into the high 30’s. I had very sore legs as well, not with the cycling bus as a result of several bites that were very itchy, red and inflamed. Strangely, my legs hurt to walk but were fine on the bike.



Santa Domingo



Chris and I had already had a good look at the maps and finding the way out looked fairly easy as we followed the walker’s route out of town. We only made the one error and a chap riding a scooter quickly put us on the right road. For the first few miles we were riding on tarmac paths out past a nature reserve where we stopped for coffee and tostada’s. At this point Malcolm produced a good quality A5 map of Logrono from his previous visit complete with our route marked on it.

Church in Belarado

We eventually joined the N120 which would become a firm friend as we journeyed on. We rode through Naverrete and on to Najera before stopping for coffee again. Malcolm fancied a pipe before we set off again so Ricky and I rolled out and I noted that the hills were softening. At that point we rejoined the N120 and began a climb similar in grade to the A660 out of Otley, but this went for 8 miles or so before we reached the top. It was nowhere near as steep as many we had climbed but it was carrying a lot of traffic, lorries especially, and it was very, very hot. All of those conditions made it quite a demanding climb and we were happy to reach the top where we found a disused garage that was able to offer us some shade as we tried to cool down. Not my usual style but I was so hot at this point I used half a bottle of water to pour over my head to help the cooling process. From there it was a steady ride on to Santo Domingo for lunch at a pavement cafe and a quick explore of the older part of the town together with collection of a stamp from the church on our credentials.

After lunch we pushed on towards Belorado having had some discussion about taking a half day the next day to stop and have a look around Burgos.

Aubergue in Belarado

Our aubergue in Belorado was run by a young lady who had spent many years around Durham and Newcastle but who had returned to live in Spain. The aubergue also had a pool which we were able to use. The dormitory was on the top floor and consisted of one large room with many beams running just at head height! There were quite a few bangs during the night! Before we had dinner in the aubergue I had time to explore the town and found the church open. It was pleasant to sit in the cool and the quiet for a while simply contemplating the journey so far, and what was still to come.

Dinner was in the aubergue and the Spanish Omelette was very good. We shared a table with Chuck, a guy from West Virginia who tried to spend at least 6 weeks a year trekking. After dinner everyone sat around in the garden chatting but we were shooed to bed at 10:00 to be ready for the next day. Again, my bunk was close to the windows so I had a cooling breeze which helped. Despite that I awoke to check my watch and was about to get up thinking it was 6:00. At that point I heard the chimes from the church and counted only five so I rolled over for a luxury hour!

Day 4 Puenta le Reina to Logrono

Day 4

Puenta le Reina to Logrono

45.65 (total 148.12)



Church - Villtuerta

It had been a hot night but my bunk was next to the window so I had a slight breeze to keep me cool. There were eight of us in the room and gentle snoring had been present but despite all of that I slept well and was ready for getting up at 5:45. We were on the road by 7:30 in the cool of the morning. I particularly noticed how loud the dawn chorus was with the joy of a new day.



More tostada's

By 9:00, after climbing fairly steadily, we had reached Villatuerta and stopped for what was to become a common order, “Tres Coffee con leche y tres tostadas, por favor.”. After breakfast we crossed the bridge and rode up the short hill to the church which was all locked up. A house nearby had the stamp for our credentials before we continued on towards Estella. As we approached Estella the A12 could be seen going up the hillside out but our road seemed to be going in a different direction and avoiding the hill. Wrong! As we went through the town there suddenly appeared a tunnel through the hillside and this was the start of a long climb of about 4 miles up through Irache (we missed the wine fountain!) on which we gained around 800 feet in height. The road then levelled out after that and Malcolm found his legs to zoom away and we lost contact for a while. We thought that we would all meet up again at Los Arcos so Chris, Ricky and myself went around the town but we could not find Malcolm, who, it turned out, had headed on to Logrono.



Los Arcos

Again we had level roads heading away from Los Arcos but the few miles going out of our next village, Torres del Rio stay with me vividly. Here we were climbing steadily up steep hills and I was effectively on my own, Chris was somewhere up front and Ricky somewhere behind. The road was very quiet with virtually no traffic. A pattern developed where the road kept going around shoulders of the hill with a climb up one shoulder and then down into the valley before climbing up again. Each descent was fast, each climb was steep. This went on for about 5 miles and in the context of mid 30’s heat under a relentless sun with very little shade. I became intensely aware that I had only half a bottle of water left and that a simple puncture could cause me great difficulty in the heat. Happily, nothing happened to cause an upset but it was great relief that I rolled down the final descent into Viana to find Chris sat waiting at the roundabout.

Once Ricky had caught up we stopped for lunch and drinks in Viana. The final approach to the town was up a steep hill with a park at the top. I spotted a water fountain and went to fill up but a man walking his dog managed to get across that the water was not good. He directed us towards the town centre through a gateway and we entered a network of narrow streets. The whole place was heaving as it was Sunday afternoon and many families were meeting to eat.  We then met the same man and his dog and who again directed us to a bar/cafe for some food.

Viana

From Viana it was a steady ride to Logrono where a pizza delivery boy led us to the aubergue on his motor scooter. Unfortunately there were two hostels and Malcolm was sat waiting at the other one. We got directions and went across but there was not enough accommodation for us so we all rode back to the first aubergue where we booked in. We ate that night in the bar next to the aubergue and where Euro 2012 was on the TV. The lady who served us in the bar kept us all entertained with her descriptions of the menu being largely “moo” and “baa”! We did have some serious discussion as Ricky was concerned that he was holding us back when we could be making faster progress. There was some recognition that we may not make Santiago but it was clear that we wanted to stay together as a group and that we wanted to enjoy the trip, being able to stop and see things as we went.

Again it was yet another early night, being in bed by 9:30 to be ready for another early start.

Viana