Day 6 Belorado to Burgos

Day 6 Belorado to Burgos

30.15 (total 224.79)

After my extra hours sleep it was up at 6:00, breakfast in the aubergue and then on the road again. At breakfast we met Ann, another person from Leeds, who had been made redundant and had decided to do something positive with the time it gave her. For the second morning my legs were quite sore with the bites that I had picked up.

Burgos Cathedral

Leaving Belorado was straight forwards but it was interesting to see that while some of the buildings were quite well maintained and refurbished (the aubergue being an example) other properties were in a state of advanced dilapidation.

The road to Burgos was much busier and there was a lot of traffic on the N120. The ride itself was fairly tedious because of the traffic and as the scenery was also bland at best as farms turned into industrial sites and then into a busy cityscape. There was also some climbing to be done, nothing as serious as we had been doing but still difficult under a hot sun. Once topped, however, the descent was a long one and went just about all the way to Burgos. The most noteworthy incident was Ricky snapping another drive side spoke on the rear wheel at Villafranca. This was put to rights by the purchase of anew back wheel once we got to Burgos. Malcolm also got pulled by the local constabulary as we entered the city because he kept riding wide into the carriageway. He was told to stay in the bike lane.

Crossing the river and entrance to main square

Burgos itself was quite stunning. We quickly found the Municipal aubergue just behind the cathedral, booked in, and then went out to look at the city. The place was teeming with people but there were plenty of quiet shady places to sit down by the river and there was a large plaza in front of the cathedral to be enjoyed. Much time was spent in the cathedral which was unbelievably large and absolutely opulent; very light and airy, unlike cathedrals back in the UK. There were countless side chapels each containing gold by the hundredweight, and with paintings, statues and icons probably worth thousands of pounds. Most notable was the silver funeral carriage which we guessed was used for El Cid, and the huge staircase that had been built after an extension had been built that required a new entrance at ground level.

Staircase in Burgos Cathedral

There was also a small church just up the road from our aubergue that was open for visitors. Here the alter was floor to ceiling with details figures setting out stories from the Bible. This was just a small church but with a huge history and much to explore. Typical really of the whole area that we were riding through.

Despite the opulence and the riches we were all aware that this was the place where Martin Sheen had his bag stolen in the film The Way. Perhaps that made us aware of the fact that there were poor people and beggars around, some of whom were approaching pilgrims and tourists asking for money.

Again, we chose to eat from the Perrigrino’s menu in the bar next to the aubergue and turned in fairly early. Although I slept well again I was nevertheless aware of plenty of noise into the night right through until 4:00 or so. They know how to party in Burgos and I suspevct that they have plenty of feast days to practice.